DemeaningPie
New Member
Disclaimer: My only purpose for this thread is to assist new to the game players that are trying to make a transition from four wheel racing to two wheel racing. This guide is not intended to reflect a "be all end all" to setting top ten times in the leader boards. The information I am posting will assist the transition and in no way reflects as the ONLY way to go faster.
With all that said I really hope this helps.
As a long time player of the Grand Turismo and Forza series of racing games, I have often found the transition from four wheels to two wheels can be a larger learning curve. This is mainly due to the different characteristics of driving a car and riding a motorcycle, a characteristic that is usually accurate in the games. With the MotoGP series, every developer has attempted to create the level of difficulty in riding a 260+ BHP motorcycle to the limits, sometimes the recreation is good, sometimes not so good. I have found that this game is tougher to control than the previous MotoGP games, and I appreciate that. By making it more difficult to control, it has added a sense of realism that forces you to obey a (certain level) law of physics. Obey the laws and you will drop your lap times, break the laws and you are punished. Pretty simple right? I wish! Below are techniques that I use to help me drop my lap times. Again, this is not the be all end all. I hope that new players to the genre will find it useful and pull more enjoyment out of racing two wheels.
Bike Control: As a starting point, set the physics to pro and set your traction control (TC) to low. What I have found is that it is far easier to maintain a line, and by that I mean your rider is not bouncing up and down correcting the turn, by pushing the left analog stick forward and roll it left or right while still pressed forward. What this technique does is create a sort of backstop for the analog stick and helps keep the desired lean angle for the turn. It helps prevent the constant up/down motion you are accustomed to seeing in the trailer videos. When it comes to turning a motorcycle, it does not turn on a dime like we are accustomed to in most four wheel racing games. Like Forza and GT, you cannot turn the car at the same time the "follow me" stipe on the road indicates you to turn. With a motorcycle, there is a slight delay. If you are having difficulty hitting the apex by running wide, turn a fraction earlier than you normally would. NOTE: WHEN BRAKING ON A DOWNHILL, THIS METHOD STEERING WILL BRING THE REAR TIRE OFF OF THE GROUND. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN THE BIKE WITH THE REAR WHEEL IN THE AIR. A HIGH SIDE WILL INSUE.
Throttle control: Throttle control is by far one of the biggest elements that needs to be learned. The throttle can not be used as an on/off switch. Part of the challenge is learning what quarter turn, half turn and three quarter turn throttle is. This is very important in helping maintain your race line around a corner and firing your bike out of a corner. You can use quarter throttle at full lean to help maintain your line, as you slowly pick the bike up out of a corner you steadily increase the throttle until you are on the fat part of the tire. Remember, a motorcycle tire has a higher contact patch on its side than it does vertical. You can (in most cases) go full throttle when you have around a 20 degree lean angle. Remember, the harder the throttle while leaned over, the further outside you race line you will get pushed. Learn your RPM's. The lower the RMP the harder throttle can be applied while leaned over. Lower RPM's equal less power, less power means you can apply the throttle sooner coming out of a corner which, if timed correctly, the peak power will hit while the bike is more upright. This helps corner exit and drop your lap times.
Braking: As with throttle control, the front brakes also have levels of input to them. Full on braking can be done while the bike is straight up and down. As you increase your lean angle, you will have to decrease the amount of front brake. Trail braking is a must. Trail braking is the act of applying the brakes to the apex of a corner. Remember, the further leaned over you are, the less amount of braking force you can apply. Like throttle control, you have to experiment to see where the limits are. Too much pressure and you tuck the front end, too little and you will blow your race line. The only time I ever use the rear brake is when I am on the front or back straight that has a hairpin corner. I apply the rear brake with the front and release the rear very quickly. Do not use the rear brake when turning in as it will upset the balance of the bike and dip your RPM's.
The best way to learn is to experiment. I find it very useful to start racing the Moto3 bikes first as they are more forgiving.
If you have any questions I will be more than happy to try and answer.
Thanks for reading!
With all that said I really hope this helps.
As a long time player of the Grand Turismo and Forza series of racing games, I have often found the transition from four wheels to two wheels can be a larger learning curve. This is mainly due to the different characteristics of driving a car and riding a motorcycle, a characteristic that is usually accurate in the games. With the MotoGP series, every developer has attempted to create the level of difficulty in riding a 260+ BHP motorcycle to the limits, sometimes the recreation is good, sometimes not so good. I have found that this game is tougher to control than the previous MotoGP games, and I appreciate that. By making it more difficult to control, it has added a sense of realism that forces you to obey a (certain level) law of physics. Obey the laws and you will drop your lap times, break the laws and you are punished. Pretty simple right? I wish! Below are techniques that I use to help me drop my lap times. Again, this is not the be all end all. I hope that new players to the genre will find it useful and pull more enjoyment out of racing two wheels.
Bike Control: As a starting point, set the physics to pro and set your traction control (TC) to low. What I have found is that it is far easier to maintain a line, and by that I mean your rider is not bouncing up and down correcting the turn, by pushing the left analog stick forward and roll it left or right while still pressed forward. What this technique does is create a sort of backstop for the analog stick and helps keep the desired lean angle for the turn. It helps prevent the constant up/down motion you are accustomed to seeing in the trailer videos. When it comes to turning a motorcycle, it does not turn on a dime like we are accustomed to in most four wheel racing games. Like Forza and GT, you cannot turn the car at the same time the "follow me" stipe on the road indicates you to turn. With a motorcycle, there is a slight delay. If you are having difficulty hitting the apex by running wide, turn a fraction earlier than you normally would. NOTE: WHEN BRAKING ON A DOWNHILL, THIS METHOD STEERING WILL BRING THE REAR TIRE OFF OF THE GROUND. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN THE BIKE WITH THE REAR WHEEL IN THE AIR. A HIGH SIDE WILL INSUE.
Throttle control: Throttle control is by far one of the biggest elements that needs to be learned. The throttle can not be used as an on/off switch. Part of the challenge is learning what quarter turn, half turn and three quarter turn throttle is. This is very important in helping maintain your race line around a corner and firing your bike out of a corner. You can use quarter throttle at full lean to help maintain your line, as you slowly pick the bike up out of a corner you steadily increase the throttle until you are on the fat part of the tire. Remember, a motorcycle tire has a higher contact patch on its side than it does vertical. You can (in most cases) go full throttle when you have around a 20 degree lean angle. Remember, the harder the throttle while leaned over, the further outside you race line you will get pushed. Learn your RPM's. The lower the RMP the harder throttle can be applied while leaned over. Lower RPM's equal less power, less power means you can apply the throttle sooner coming out of a corner which, if timed correctly, the peak power will hit while the bike is more upright. This helps corner exit and drop your lap times.
Braking: As with throttle control, the front brakes also have levels of input to them. Full on braking can be done while the bike is straight up and down. As you increase your lean angle, you will have to decrease the amount of front brake. Trail braking is a must. Trail braking is the act of applying the brakes to the apex of a corner. Remember, the further leaned over you are, the less amount of braking force you can apply. Like throttle control, you have to experiment to see where the limits are. Too much pressure and you tuck the front end, too little and you will blow your race line. The only time I ever use the rear brake is when I am on the front or back straight that has a hairpin corner. I apply the rear brake with the front and release the rear very quickly. Do not use the rear brake when turning in as it will upset the balance of the bike and dip your RPM's.
The best way to learn is to experiment. I find it very useful to start racing the Moto3 bikes first as they are more forgiving.
If you have any questions I will be more than happy to try and answer.
Thanks for reading!
